Feb 19 2006
Fat Chance - Reflections on oil consumption
Warning: this article is best enjoyed with a side serve of grated
daikon, pickled ginger and wasabi. Please drain on absorbent kitchen
towel paper before reading.
Until the recent reintroduction of unrefined coconut oil on the
wholefoods scene, and the attempt to re-educate a public indoctrinated
by the margarine and refined oils industry of its supposed deleterious
effects, all that stood between artery obstructing, cell destroying
trans fats and a deep fryer was butter. Hardly a choice for most
macrobiotically oriented, whole food loving individuals. Yet research
from sources such as the respected Price-Pottenger camp seems to
indicate that even butter has its merits, while the ancient science of
Ayurveda has championed the unique properties of ghee – clarified
butter – as a highly medicinal and Sattvic food for millennia.
However with our macrobiotic understanding and the tools of our
magic spectacles of the principals of yin and yang, we are fortunate to
be able to evaluate the place these foods have, if any, in our daily
fare. I have found it useful to examine the role of fats in our diets
and our lives to come to a more balanced understanding of them and
evaluate if they are suitable for me, my condition and my environment.
I was initially drawn to investigating the qualities of coconut oil
because of the ability to heat it to high temperatures without creating
trans fats. I was also intrigued by the claims about its healing
properties, but that isn’t the main reason I was curious about it. As a
fat that is not supposedly ‘essential’ like the much talked about
omegas, I feel that the purported healing properties are novel and
interesting to investigate, but not unobtainable through other means.
And I am not keen on ascribing panacea like properties to any one
particular food - the magic bullet approach which goes against the
grain (pun intended) of the whole approach of a macrobiotic lifestyle –
the synergistic effects of the whole, being much greater than the sum
of its parts.
Unrefined Coconut oil does not seem to contribute to weight gain or
cellulite deposition as other oils do. In fact in some cases the more
one consumes, the more fat one actually loses. Hmmm, I am starting to
see why there is so much interest in it! This effect is thought to be
due to both its thyroid function regulating actions as well as its
metabolic process harmonising effect. A lot of focus of this seems its
role in fat metabolism and how its medium chain triglycerides are
utilised in the body for energy. Some have suggested that it bypasses
the usual enzymes that break down fats and therefore allows possibly
compromised fat digesting organs to enjoy a rest. Immune enhancement
through its lauric acids, and relief of digestive complaints such as
Chron’s Disease are other areas being investigated. However I am
uncomfortable with viewing a food item in this medicinal way. People
start to say, “I take a tablespoon of coconut oil every day,” like they
take vitamin E or an aspirin. I am always tempted to ask them where
they take it to! We don’t usually talk about taking carrots. It is
reducing food to a manipulable end product, which we have an intended
use for rather than a nourishing natural ingredient from mother
nature’s garden that we allow our innate intelligence to put to the use
it sees fit. This respects the body’s wisdom and the healing self
regulatory force within, rather than trying to play scientist and
balance something whose knowledge is ultimately beyond our ability to
dictate to.
In the environments where it has traditionally been used for many
generations, coconut oil has reportedly minimised parasitic infestation
and kept circulatory and cardiovascular health strong for many years,
as well as preserved skin quality. However this needs to be evaluated
in the climatic context as well.
I had always believed that deep frying or tempuraed food was not
for me - partly from my fat phobic days as well as the belief that it
wasn’t so important in a relatively moderate climate such as Melbourne,
Australia. I was also very wary of trans fats which I knew to be
generated when heating foods to high temperatures.
My experience at the Kushi Institute in cold, damp Holland, the
country of my birth, changed my opinion of the usefulness of this
cooking technique. I enjoyed this cooking style there frequently, often
worrying that I would leave with a deep fried liver and a tempuraed
gall bladder! But that was not to be the case. When I commented how
much I took to it and that I even used it on my return in the middle of
a Melbourne summer and the possible inappropriateness of this, an
experienced macrobiotic friend gave me a new perspective. Apparently it
can be useful in the warmer seasons. Hot weather can drain energy. Most
people remember coming back exhausted from a day at the beach, even if
they lazed it away on the sand engrossed in a romance novel. You can’t
simply exist on salad and hope to keep your summer spark. Even dishes
like tempura, traditionally associated with colder weather eating can
be very appropriate to occasionally include on summer menus,
challenging our ideas of what we may associate with summer fare when we
only examine the surface energy of a food or cooking style. Actually,
tempura imparts a quickly dispersing feel, while simultaneously holding
energy, imparting that ability to those who consume it as part of
overall appropriate eating. The crisp flour coating creates a light,
protective barrier that keeps the freshness of the fare contained
within. Inside, the food is steamed and remains light. Like the
‘jacket’ protecting the tempuraed vegetables, you would select
appropriate protective clothing when venturing into the hot sun. It
would be foolish to go into the dessert or rainforest unattired, and
come to think of it, a salad wouldn’t last long in the dessert sun
either!
At the Kushi Institute in Holland, they often enjoy high energy
cooking techniques like quick sauteing – water or oil – and tempura to
remain energised in an environment where water threatens at every turn
– most of the country is below sea level, much is reclaimed land and it
rains all the time. Perhaps the high incidence of rheumatism and asthma
is an indication that many people are affected by this, compounded by
basing their diets on dairy products, bread and heavier animal foods in
an unconscious attempt to offset these factors. The cooking styles
taught there to help people out of these patterns is a true use of
macrobiotic principles – harmonise with your environment – understand
it and yourself – and thrive! And they seem to be doing so!
During a cooking class, Wieke Nelissen, the co-founder commented
that if she omits these techniques her family seeks to make up the
difference in less balanced food choices outside the home. Her daughter
even converted a boyfriend from his fast food upbringing to being a
macrobiotic cooking teacher and her husband (!) by using these strong
and satisfying cooking styles. The recognition that we need the fire
energy that various cooking styles provide is the recognition that it
is the fire of life, the spark that animates us. It is the Chinese
concept of Shen or spirit that one can see shining in someone’s eyes –
the spirit is home and alive!
This begs the question, how else can we introduce this fire energy
to support our lives and our dreams. It is something that Gabriel
Cousens, MD. discusses in his book Conscious Eating, and is the focus
of how he maintains his balance while eating a predominantly raw and
live food diet. He explains that it is by providing the heat, the fire
from his consciousness and awareness practises that he is able to fuel
the fire of life from sources other than his daily food. And this fire
prevents stagnation on the physical as well as mental, emotional and
spiritual aspects of being for him. An interesting concept to
consider…
How much fat is too much? How much obstructs our lymph? Our ability
to discharge our excesses and process our nourishment? To cause
stagnation? To provide sufficient warmth and protection? To produce
healthy hormones. There is no one size fits all definitive answer
(unfortunately). Yet fortunately it prods us into self reflection.
There is an undeniable satiation associated with consuming adequate
fats. It has even been dubbed ‘the mouth feel of fats.’ One that does
not require intensive chewing to achieve as with carbohydrates. Some
people find that avoiding fats or minimising them for extended periods
of time makes their appetites insatiable. Adding coconut, flax and
other high quality oil certainly seems to solve that problem for many.
If this additional fat is comprised of coconut or flax seed oil, many
people report positive health and weight changes as well as a new
feeling of stability. This may seem advantageous on the surface yet
being handed satisfaction on a plate – literally without much
interaction, and without making it our own through the chewing process,
can translate to bodily laziness in extracting nourishment. It is just
another indication that one factor cannot be consumed in isolation. It
isn’t about no-fat, high-fat, low carb, high protein or whatever
combination is in vogue this week. It is truly about balance and
appropriateness. Hmm… that sounds like macrobiotics…
The good news is that the mouth feel of fat can be up or down
regulated according to consumption. This can take from a few days to
several weeks to take full effect.
Recently, I have been struggling with whether to widen or focus my
eating, to austerely limit my intake of fats to foster clarity and
focus and heal long standing conditions, or relax and widen my focus.
Then my experienced macrobiotic friend reminded me that discharging is
a yang process requiring energy. Repeatedly or continuously eating a
too narrowly focussed diet can sometimes be counterproductive though it
has very useful applications too. I have just seen too many people
(especially when looking in the mirror!) swing from one extreme to the
other. I have been trying to keep in mind ideas about how healing and
balance is really about our body’s ability to deal with and process
what we eat and experience. It seems that dis-ease happens when we get
stuck - physically, emotionally, spiritually. And our diet has to be
appropriate for those ends - so for me it has evolved beyond the
question of have I totally avoided everything on my avoid list today,
to was I able to process the nourishment I received and eliminate the
rest? It has also deepened my respect for practises such as thorough
chewing, body scrubs and ginger compresses, and their ability to keep
our channels of elimination open. On a physical level, inappropriate
amounts or varieties of fats can severely obstruct this daily
elimination process and lead to the build up of stagnation. So the
issue of fats can be an important one. One aim of macrobiotics it to
prevent or reduce this stagnation so the infinite universe can flow
through us and we can be in touch with this force and manifest our
dreams.
I have found that simple yet nourishing food choices, focussing on
finding balance closest to the fulcrum, assists me the most in this
endeavour. So while I enjoy experimenting with ideas and energies, my
body seems to appreciate the middle road, balance and clarity the most.
Although I am fascinated by the reports and studies from energetic as
well as balanced scientific enquiry, for me, my own responses and
body/mind feedback have to take precedence in my selection. I have
found that my system is incredibly sensitive to food choices,
particularly that of oil quantity and quality, and I need to exercise
caution in the amounts I consume. When I consume too much or an
inappropriate variety, I can feel my gall bladder meridian register its
protests. It is my internal fat barometer that I need to respect. Not
always easy to do but how can I argue with that?
There are many unresolved questions about fats and oils from a
nutritional as well as an energetic point of view. Consuming fats in
any form, and from any source seems to have an acidifying effect on the
body. Perhaps that is one reason why an over consumption of fats beyond
the individual’s ability to process them can lead to imbalance and
dis-ease. Appropriate fat intake in the context of balanced food
choices would not have this effect. And appropriateness seems to be a
highly individual measure in this regard.
However in a macrobiotic context the questions relating to oil use
seem to vary between those in relatively good health, or at least have
a happy relationship with their liver and gall bladder, and those whose
diets need to be more focussed for healing purposes. Some people find
that any fat will block or slow down the discharge process. I have been
grappling with the issue of how fats figure in the latter and so far
seem to think that fats in any significant quantity seem to slow down
or stop the discharge process in some individuals. Some seem to be more
sensitive to the type of fat and can still discharge if the fat
consumption is of a particular kind or amount, and for others - perhaps
those whose digestive or lymphatic system is compromised in a
particular way – seem to have this process suppressed by fat intake of
any discernable proportion.
Interestingly several of the anecdotal reports of those who feel
their own health has improved since adding coconut products to their
diet are individuals living in very cold climates such as that of
northern Europe. Perhaps this relatively yin product is a natural
balance to the more contractive foods they are drawn to in this
climate. Or perhaps it is more about the actual quality of the fat –
that of the saturated variety since I have heard similar reports
regarding organic butter and resistance to the blustery mid west
winters in the USA. How does this fit in with a macrobiotic view of
saturated fats and human health and evolution? Are they necessary in
certain circumstances or can we create the necessary biological
conditions where we adequately generate our own warmth?
The anecdotal reports from people eating it are very promising. But
I always find it useful to look at their constitution, condition and
dietary history before generalising those anecdotes and applying it to
other people whose condition may be vastly different. In Ayurveda
coconut oil is classified as a Pitta reducing substance and highly
regarded as such. Pitta is the dosha or humour with most internal fire
and heat. Those who have a more yang condition or constitution may find
their uncomfortable inner warmth soothingly doused when they discover
coconut oil.
Other considerations include the role of what have been dubbed the
essential fatty acids, due to the theory that these are substances that
cannot be made in the body and need to be consumed through dietary
sources for optimal functioning. The role of these fats, the omega 3
and 6 groups, is a contentious issue in modern macrobiotic discussion.
I feel that is due more to the manner in which they have recently been
seen as a dietary supplement, than from objectively examining their
role in human biological evolution.
Including whole food sources of these nutrients such as dark leafy
greens, sea vegetables, wild fish, unrefined, cold pressed oils, nuts,
seeds, whole grains and their products is vastly different from downing
spoonfuls of refined cod liver oil or pills. You can’t fool the body –
it can easily spot a red herring!
In bygone times in some European villages, especially coastal ones,
the staples included omega 3 rich herring and kippers accompanied by
omega 6 rich oatmeal, heavy unrefined bread and fresh vegetables.
Possibly all washed down with glasses of thick ale to warm their
bellies! These people were noted for their longevity, large families
and robust health. Check out the earlobes on their descendants for
evidence of constitutional fortitude! It has been suggested that
individuals whose ancestors were these coastal fisher people have
higher requirements for the omega 3’s than those hailing from other
parts of the globe. Their bodies seem to expect meals of wild salmon,
dulse and oatmeal. Flax seed oil with its high amount of omega 3’s
seems to provide a nutrient that humans had plenty of, from many
sources in the evolutionary progression, with an absence of the modern
day substances that depleted or competed with them – the present day
supposedly dis-ease inducing high omega 6 to omega 3 ratios. This has
becoming an increasing scenario in the past few generations which is
becoming apparent in the current generation where the problems with
deficiencies are prevalent. And it is not a matter of simply looking at
an isolated nutrient and attributing all of humanities ills to it. Or
suggesting it might have useful applications – an approach bound to
result in one sided thinking and imbalances. But of examining the
nutrient rich diets of our ancestors the world over for a common
element – for example the inclusion of whole grains in almost every
culture. Considering the appropriate role of fats in our lives is akin
to the situation of humanity’s evolution with whole grains as a staple.
Although fats are not the centrepiece of a balanced diet, they are a
small, but important factor to consider. It is a matter of evaluating
if it is something our systems seem to need to develop and function
optimally - the problems associated with their absence may not become
apparent for a few generations but eventually they do. It is
interesting to note the increasingly poor health of individuals whose
ancestors were city dwellers – for example descendants of those living
in inner city London since the industrial revolution compared to those
who a generation or two ago were country folk. Many Australians with an
English background are descendants of these convict folk and have had a
daily reliance on highly refined foods ever since. Can we argue with
evolution? Or can we use the knowledge of biological transmutation to
optimise our well being with respect for our past and a vision for our
future?
In a conversation at the Kushi Institute in Holland it was
discussed that flax used to be a staple of cold, temperate Holland but
had recently not been grown there. The only source of flax or linseed
oil commonly available there at the time was rancid and sitting on
health food store shelves in clear glass bottles. Only suitable for
painting and varnishing applications – if that! This is a plant that is
grown in an environment in which buckwheat would thrive yet is
theoretically banished from macrobiotic plates and minds as
automatically being too yin for regular use, while tropical sesame oil
and mediterranean olive oil are welcomed. Although sensitive to heat
and more perishable which do present yin characteristics, the seed
itself is extremely hardy – in fact if you swallow one whole, it will
be ‘plantable’ and ‘sproutable’ when it emerges from the other end! It
requires crushing for its nutrients to be accessible. While the olive
fruit is large, grows in warm climates and displays more overtly yin
properties. Perhaps we can use more variety in our choices.
Including too many strong fat dissolving and dispersing ingredients
such as shiitake mushrooms, dried and fresh daikon, scallions, ginger -
all favourites of mine – can trigger one to crave fats in an innate
drive to maintain the status quo. So in discharging old fats, slow and
steady seems to be the way to go. Peppermint, spices, alcohol, vinegar
and long hot showers, saunas, baths and compresses can also have this
effect. Too may lightly cooked or raw dishes in the absence of more
sustaining fare can also send one running for the almond butter or
tahini jar in an attempt to provide some inner warmth and stability.
Although fats are not necessarily warming of themselves, they do allow
us to hold heat more readily. However balancing at the extremes may be
fun but is possibly best approached with caution. Re-examining our core
daily practise to find that stability and nourishment in more moderate
ways may be the answer.
Cooked and uncooked fats have a vastly different energy and role to
play in our nourishment. While oils rich in omega 3’s become toxic when
heated and are added to foods after cooking, using oil judiciously in
cooking can make the difference between a satisfying dish and one that
lacks substance. It can also be used to change the energy of the dish
and carry certain energetic properties of the ingredients more deeply
into the body. Even western nutrition recognises that certain vitamins
and minerals are more absorbable in the presence of fat.
It seems to be a matter of employing the macrobiotic vision of
looking to traditional cultures and practises and acknowledging how
these foods were used and in what context and climate. Oils rich in
heat stable saturated fats and low in temperature sensitive
polyunsaturated fats have traditionally been used for baking and high
temperature frying.
While flax is highly perishable, it is one of the most concentrated
sources of the relatively difficult to obtain omega 3’s – in fact it
seems to be the richest source. On a culinary level, coconut oil’s high
smoke temperature seems to solve the deep frying dilemma since this
prevents the creation of trans fatty acids. Though practically on the
few occasions I have attempted to deep fry with it - it was not very
successful - it splattered a lot (especially anything that is salty –
like strips of sea vegetables – yin repelling yang?) and took a while
to heat to the right temperature then held its heat for an
extraordinarily long time. Most of the cooking ended up happening after
I had to turn the flame off. It also imparted a very strong aroma to
the entire kitchen (and house). It is an oil with a strong flavour in
its unrefined form, as most unbleached natural oils are. The flavour of
coconut oil seems to vary between brands and regions of production. It
is advisable to try different ones to find one agreeable to individual
taste buds. Some employ a light steaming process which results in a
finished product that is still unrefined and un-hydrogenated but much
milder in taste, more full bodied in texture and better tolerated by
oil sensitive individuals. In general some oils are more suitable for
certain dishes and cooking styles than others. Coconut oil may be a
welcome addition to an Indonesian style tempeh dish served on a bed of
long grain brown rice, while toasted sesame oil may add a delightful
accent to a Japanese snow pea and arame salad. Another reason to
embrace variety. It may also be useful to employ different oils for
their benefits in moderation with awareness of their shortcomings. I am
a proponent of eating mostly locally sourced ingredients but I would
rather cross some cultural culinary boundaries than build my cellular
membranes with metabolically obstructing trans fats. On another level I
feel that including token amounts of traditional foods from other
cultures is a small way to dispel global xenophobic tendencies and
foster cross cultural understandings – after all our daily fare creates
our blood and influences our thoughts and feelings. Naturally, sourcing
our staple foods locally will support the clarity and balance to
integrate these experiences.
I have recently come across another oil, the original (non GMO or
hybridised) mustard seed oil, which also seems to be resilient to high
temperature applications. I have seen it mentioned in one of Aveline
Kushi’s cookbooks, though have yet to experiment with it personally.
Apparently mustard seed oil was traditionally used for high heat
applications like tempura in the days before it was tampered with and
became associated with the rapeseed and canola scandals. In its
unrefined, unhybridised forms, an innovation by Australian organic
farmers it has some useful applications. Supposedly its smoke point is
over 200 degrees Celsius which is hot enough for tempura at 180 degrees Celsius. The hotter the
oil is when the food is dropped into it, the less oily the food
becomes. It would be great to find an oil that is able to hold its own
for this cooking style becasue I have not been satisfied with the
safety of sunflower and safflower and am undecided about heating oils
such as sesame to such high temperatures. So when I am hesitant to heat
it too high for fear of damaging the oil and creating trans fats the
food absorbs too much oil and does not impart the beneficial properties
of this cooking style. Perhaps looking at the traditional oils used for
this preparation technique will provide the answer.
The reintroduction of traditional items such as unrefined flax and
cocounut oils, traditionally made olive and sesame oils and more recent
rediscoveries of pumpkin seed oil and unrefined, untampered with
mustard seed oil seems to indicate that we live in truly blessed times.
We have the ability to source these treasures of the past, employ our
enegeitc understanding that evoolved from days gone by and incorporate
the understandings from modern nutritional insights. With that at our
disposal, can we go wrong? Fat chance!
Although Safflower oil is favoured by many natural food enthusiasts for
deep frying purposes, traditionally this oil was avoided. Ayurvedic
wisdom advises against its use, believing it compromises longevity,
something that was echoed by findings at the Linus Pauling Foundation.
Eastern European folk practises included it in the revered oil chewing
cleansing practise of holding a spoonful of the oil in the mouth for
10-20 minutes and ‘chewing’ vigorously to stimulate release of
lymphatic toxins into the oil which was then discarded and mouth rinsed
thoroughly. Although sunflower oil is also recommended for this
practise, safflower was preferred. This seems to indicate that is has
some unique properties that may or may not make it suitable for
consumption. Its high content of polyunsaturated omega 6 makes it prone
to undergoing changes at high temperatures and this high level of omega
6 further entrenches the imbalance in omega 6 to omega 3 ratios that
are associated with degenerative conditions. Perhaps an innate
understanding of these properties, without the modern scientific
interpretation was one reason it was traditionally minimized in
culinary use.
Note: since I researched and wrote this article on oils – a substance
that builds the very cell membranes holding our physical structures
together, I have been on a relentless search to find an oil meeting the
criteria which I believe are necessary to ensure health and safe use.
Ask and you shall receive! Sure enough, I came across rice bran oil.
Finally, after all this time and cooking and looking, here it is. It is
sourced from the thin brown coating between the rice kernel and the
protective husk/hull. Although new to most Western palates and
kitchens, it has a history of use in Asia, especially Thai cooking.
Perhaps it is the reason those Thai dishes always have some magical
appeal that is hard to replicate at home. Maybe that is about to
change! Rice bran oil has also been highly prized in India, China,
Indonesia, Korea and Japan. It is used in some processed Japanese
health foods to produce a light and crispy product which is free from
trans fatty acids.
I have yet to come across a chef, nutritionist or food enthusiast who
has tried cooking with rice bran oil who has not been delighted and
astonished by its performance, mild, neutral and faintly nutty taste
and applications. In fact it has been embraced with the same enthusiasm
by both some of Australia’s most well known chefs as well as by many
fish and chip shops due to its remarkable performance and quality.
When used in commercial applications it is recycled after use and made
into biodegradable soaps, detergent and bio-diesel.
Testing in my own kitchen has revealed remarkable results with deep
frying experiments. It has such low viscosity that upon measuring the
amount of oil after cooking, it was found that the volume was
practically the same as beforehand. Almost none had been absorbed
during the cooking process which was supported by the light, crisp,
clean flavour of the food. Sourced from a nut and seed free source, its
risk of inducing allergenic reactions is minimal which are becoming
widespread with the common use of oils sourced from plants such as
peanuts, sesame canola and soy.
With a smoke point of 250 degrees Celsius (480 degrees Farenheit), the risk of
creating health damaging trans fatty acids is minimised. This is one of
the main reasons I am so enamoured by its properties. Trans fatty acids
have been identified to be a major component in the development of
degenerative disease and I am part of the crusade against them!
It also performs well in salads and many people appreciate the way it
enhances food flavours without imposing its own strong taste such as
olive oil tends to do.
It has potential for use in cosmetic and massage applications since
exposure to light and oxygen does not cause it to become rancid.
Knowing that oils are so sensitive to heat and light, I was always
aware that the best oils for use were stored in opaque containers. When
a clear, glass sample bottle of rice bran oil first arrived for me to
test, I was certain that it would taste and smell of rancidity however
it passed the test of my finely tuned olfactory rancidity detector with
flying colours. The taste spoke for itself.
I now also regularly oil my prized bamboo cutting board. Not only is it
safe to have in contact with my beloved organic vegetables but it
ensures that no rancid oils are in contact with the food and there is
no unpleasant odour.
It appears that rice bran oil is also the richest known source of gamma
oryzanol, a potent antioxidant, phytosterols, polyphenols and a
vegetable source of squalene. These factors may be responsible for its
hypocholesterolic effects. It appears to dramatically lower the
dangerous LDL cholesterol (up to 30% when consuming about two
tablespoons a day) without affecting beneficial HDL cholesterol. Its
unsaponifiable fraction is not only rich in vitamin E but a whole host
of potent tocopherols and tocotrienols, related antioxidants with ever
more health protective properties. It looks like the wonderful rice
plant has given us another treasure to savour and enhance our cooking,
eating and wellbeing.
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